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The Stroppe Registry =================
For details Click Here |
Grant your
turn signals some life
If
you install any of the Grant Steering wheels, your torn signal cancelers are
likely to break off on the first cold day (if they haven’t all ready).
After several expensive replacements, I finally discovered what was happening.
Your stock steering wheel had a cam to contact the cancelers while the Grant
horn kit comes with two roll pins to contact the cancelers. When you turn the
steering wheel in the direction of the turn the roll pins usually work well.
However, when the steering wheel returns the roll pins catch a very small tab on
the backside of the canceler causing a distinct clicking. This clicking is the
roll pin snagging, and on colder days when the plastic canceler arm is more
brittle, they snap off and there goes another eighty some odd dollars. In order to have your turn signals still
function properly you must make the following adjustments:
P.S. I use Hockey tape for electrical
connections and wire bundling as FMC
does in late model vehicles.
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First, you have to file or grind off the
canceling arms* I found a Die-Grinder worked the best while the switch was on
the vehicle although taking the canceler assembly off is preferable. In any
case, you may have to do final grinding or filing after the installing the
assembler to obtain proper and equal clearance between the steering shaft and
the cancelers. The overall length of the arm should end up about 7/8" on
the top canceler arm and 13/16" on the lower. You may have to experiment a
bit for you particular vehicle. You should be able to pass a 3/8” bolt in
between the steering shaft and the canceler.
After
you finish the canceler arms, if you did not purchase a “deep dish” style
steering wheel you will have to bend the turn signal arm back away from the
Grant Steering Wheels. Most of the Grant wheel designs have to shallow a dish to
provide room for the driver. Use
